Hello Croatia


Rural sights coming into Croatia
We had a great time in Hungary, and were now looking forward to seeing Croatia.

But, at the Donji Miholjac border post, we experienced our first full-on customs inspection. The Croatian officials even checked inside our shower and wardrobe to make sure no-one was hiding in there!

Moving on, we travelled through tiny villages. There were many horses and carts on the road that had to be passed with great care, women in scarfs and shawls, wearing socks and sandals, and men wearing leggings and braces on their pants, all carrying pitchforks or tending their local plots of land.

Zagreb street
Eventually, we reached the outskirts of Zagreb, the capital and largest city of Croatia (population around 800 k).

But trying to find Autocamp Plitivice, our campsite, was not fun. After traveling the small back streets of suburban Zagreb for about 40 minutes, going 20 kms out of our way on the motorway, then another 17 kms in small streets, we finally found it. Once there, it proved to be well located as we were close to transport to get into the city.

We met a French couple at the camp who had done exactly the same thing as us, so we were somewhat mollified.

Zagreb city wall view
The next day, we headed into Zagreb, for a day of sightseeing. We used the local bus and tram to get into the city, then walked everywhere else. We had great fun.

Zagreb is an old city, with its history rooted in Roman times. We found the old town and enjoyed the view from its old city walls. You could see the wonderful spires of the cathedral and St Mark’s Church, as well as many red tiled roofs. 

Then we walked through the pedestrian area of Tkalčićeva Street, and beyond. We enjoyed our first Croatian meal, and saw the changing of the Royal Guard. Leigh’s old marching nose and feet were twitching madly.  All up, we had a lovely time.

Enjoying the local delicacies
While there, we found the market, and picked up some local specialties, like burek pastries, cevapici (meatballs), Pag cheese, and local liqueur to take back to the campsite for dinner.

That night, we enjoyed some of these spoils, along with other food from our various stops and market trips. Delicious.

Moving on from Zagreb, a total highlight for us was stopping at Slunj (recommended by the receptionist at the Zagreb campsite).

Slunj is a very small village (around 1500 people) surrounded by lakes and waterfalls. The lower part of the town is built over the top of these lakes and waterfalls, which makes it look like the water is flowing through the houses. It is the most delightful place.
The waterfalls of Slunj 

It was absolutely pouring with rain when we stopped, but it did not dampen the beauty of it.

Our spirits were further lifted by laughing about the five caravans that were driven down the narrow entrance road to Slunj, and not able to get out without uncoupling the vans to turn them about by hand!

We moved on the same day, heading for Plitvice, less than 30 minutes from Slunj.

Plitvice is famous for its national park which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Within the national park there are 16 lakes, each sitting at a different level and linked by a series of cascading waterfalls.
Some of the waterfalls of Plitvice

The lakes vary in colour, ranging from bright blue to green or grey. Apparently, the colours are influenced by the quantity of minerals or organisms in the lake as the sunlight strikes it. They are a natural phenomenon and extraordinarily beautiful. We loved this part of Croatia.

After checking out these lovely lakes, we drove to nearby Autocamp Korana for a few nights.

When we arrived, Leigh spotted a van with a big New Zealand scarf across its dashboard.

Lovely forest walk beside Plitvice waterfalls
It turned out to be Ross and Yvonne from Puketapu, in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. We soon got together and had a great time with them, hanging out, and eating and drinking lots of wine.

It was really good to hear a Kiwi accent and share travelling experiences. They were heading North in the opposite direction to us so we wished them happy travelling, and were sad to see them go the next morning.

After they left, we went back to the lakes for a closer look. This involved two boat rides across amazingly clear water, and a long and beautiful walk along the river with its many stunning waterfalls. The colour of the trees was spectacular, and with the deep blue of the water as a background, we counted this as one of our best trips.

When we stopped for lunch, we were joined at our picnic-table by the Dutch caravaners who had difficulty with the steep road at Slunj yesterday. They were great people to chat to and share experiences with. It is amazing the number of people we keep seeing again and again at various campsites and tourist stops as we all travel south.

Tomorrow, we cross the mountains heading for Zadar, on Croatia’s coast.

This blog describes part of our 7 month campervan trip around central and southern Europe, which began in Germany.