Tuscany


Marg at the top of Cascata del Marmore
Driving out of Rome in our campervan, Vanni, we were looking forward to driving through Tuscany, Italy’s famous hill-town and sunflower region. But first, we stopped at the Cascata del Marmore, a man-made waterfall created by the ancient Romans.

We followed endless signs to find these falls. Then the road became very, very narrow, and we were just about to give up. Pulling over to look at our options, we were suddenly passed by a large local bus. We figured if he could get through, we could too! So, we immediately drove on behind him and got to the falls without further problems.

We walked up to the top of the falls, for the view of the cascade. The water drops 165 metres, making it one of the tallest in Europe, and the tallest man-made waterfall in the world.
Bagnoregio

We then moved on to Orvieto, a very popular ancient Tuscan hill town with a beautiful duomo. While there, we chanced on a street parade and brass band, which Leigh really loved. We also found their market and admired the range and quality of the goods. We bought some local olives there, before heading back to Vanni.

Bagnoregio, our next stop, is a tiny ancient island of a village, atop cliffs accessible only by a 300 m long footbridge. It has only 20 or so residents and dates back to Etruscan times – it was spectacular. 

Our plan was to then head on to Assisi, but time was against us as we still had Spoleto and Spello that we wanted to see first, and we were travelling in the dark and getting tired.
Leigh in Spoleto old town

Suddenly we spotted a camping sign, and after travelling along a very narrow winding road we finally reached a lovely quiet rural campsite, called Camping Falconi. We only stayed there one night, but it was so nice to be in cool mountain air, and not the stifling heat of Rome.

The next morning, we headed north to Spoleto, a lovely city of about 38,000 people, on the slopes of a sacred mountain in the Apennines. We walked around the medieval Upper Town, seeing some ancient Roman and medieval sacred sites, and the lovely duomo.

Our next stop was at nearby Spello, it was extremely pretty and not too touristy.
Quaint street in Spello, Tuscany

Spello is an ancient walled town. It was populated in ancient times, and in the 1st century BC became a Roman colony under the reign of Constantine the Great.

We wandered the tiny cobbled streets, lined with beautiful medieval stone buildings. We also enjoyed the plethora of old stone churches and the Roman amphitheatre ruins.

Not long after, we arrived in Assisi to find it to be the perfect Italian hill town, and although it was very touristy, its pink and white marble buildings are unique, and really worth seeing.

Leigh with statue of St Francis Assisi, in Assisi (UNESCO)
Assis is best known as the birthplace of St Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of Italy, and founder of the Franciscan order. Apparently, it is a religious destination second only to Rome, and it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We explored its winding medieval streets, and saw some beautiful palazzos and churches, including the interesting Basilica of di San Francesco which contains sacred relics of St Francis. 

After our busy day visiting these charming hill towns, we settled in at Camping Internazionale Assisi for the night.

Marg outside the cathedral in Perugia, Tuscany
A highlight in the next leg of the trip was stopping at Perugia which has an old town with typical alleys, huge churches and palaces, and thousands of years of history.

We found Rocca Paolina, amazing tunnels which are right under the main piazza, and moved on through this interesting town from there. The 15th century Gothic Perugia Cathedral caught our imagination because of its relatively unadorned, brick exterior. It was austere but so majestic.

Moving on, we circled Lago (Lake) Trasimeno, then drove on to Montepulciano, a walled city built on a sloping and narrow limestone ridge. 
Marg at Palazzo Pubblico on Piazza del Campo, Siena (UNESCO)

It’s another lovely historic town, with lots of wine shops. It’s known for the wine called Vino Nobile - which we tasted, of course!

Our next stop was Siena, where we camped at Camping Colleverde.

We caught the campsite shuttle bus into Siena city, and had a great time roaming the narrow and often steep streets, seeing all the sights.

Siena is a large walled city and classic medieval hill town. It’s known as the most beautiful city in Italy, and it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site. It began as an Etruscan settlement and by the 5th century, it was the seat of a Christian bishop.

Relaxing at the lovely Castello di Brolio in Chianti
Its history shows in the architecture, and walking around Sienna’s old town, we found the interesting fan-shaped Piazza del Campo, the 13th century Palazzo Pubblico, the duomo, and several fountains, churches and public buildings. It is indeed a very lovely city.

After all the sightseeing, we did a wine tasting, accompanied by lots of yummy nibbles, then managed to return to the camp ok.  

From Siena, we moved through the Chianti wine region and stopped at Castello di Brolio. This is an amazing castle that was built around 1000 AD.

Chianti vines
It is owned by the family who put “Chianti” wine on the map and the castle is still their home. We did a tasting of their wine after touring the castle.

We liked nearby Radda in Chianti, an interesting and quaint wine town where we tasted and bought some Chianto Classico.

After that, we drove through Pogibonsi and saw the Rimor factory where Vanni was made.

Our next stop was Pisa. We arrived there, and found our campsite, Torre Pendente, to be only 800 metres from the actual Torre Pendente, the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
Marg at Piazza del Duomo & the Leaning Tower of Pisa (UNESCO)

We walked through the Piazza del Duomo, the park area in which the leaning tower is located. There are several beautiful buildings on the Piazza; it’s wonderful. Collectively, the four main medieval buildings there are a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Later, we walked through Pisa township, and found it to be a lovely unpretentious old town, with the usual narrow streets and medieval alleys. It’s also a vibrant university town with not so many tourists away from The Tower.

It was a change to be walking in a flat town rather than a hill town - our legs were certainly happier.
Detail of Basilica di San Michele in Foro, Lucca

Our next stop was Lucca, again, founded by the Etruscans, then colonised by the Romans in 180 BC. Apparently, during the Roman era, Lucca served as an important meeting place for Julius Caesar and Crassus.

Lucca is surrounded by medieval walls that have walking and cycling paths, and gardens along the top, so we walked along them for a while. The views were wonderful, and It gave us a great overview of Lucca’s well-preserved historic centre.

Lucca is known as the city of 100 churches. We saw a few of them, including the attractive duomo. But it was the Basilica di San Michele in Foro that captured us, with its finely carved columns and ornate arches. It is quite different.

We though Lucca to be a very lovely city behind its wonderful medieval walls, and well-preserved towers. It was a real find and we loved its quaint little streets and alleys.

Having had a good look through the Tuscany area, it was time to move further north. Our next stop is on the coast at Cinque Terre.

This blog describes part of our 7 month motorhome trip around central and southern Europe, which began in Germany in April.