Poland - the south still

Bochnia Salt mine-Marg
Leaving Kraków, we drove through more small villages and communes until we reached the town of Bochnia which has the Kopalnia Soli – Poland’s most ancient salt mine.

This mine has been worked from the Middle Ages until the present day.

Tarnów-Marg & Vanni
We descended the main mine shaft in a noisy, small and very quick (eek!) lift to the mine workings.

There, we had a short train ride to a series of exhibition tunnels, chambers and chapel which had some wonderful sculptures.

It was a very interesting visit in an authentic mine.

Tarnow Rynek-Marg
Later, we drove to Tarnów (pronounced tarnuf), and after following some slightly confusing camping signs we found our campsite.

It was in the grounds of an attractive hotel just on the edge of town. 

There was just us and a Swiss couple in their van, so it was very peaceful.

Tarnow-Gypsy celebration
It was an easy walk to Tarnów’s medieval old town which was marked by a circular street of cobble stones flanked by historic homes and shops.

This street went right around the old part of the city, and included parts of the old town wall.

The rynek (market square) had a very solid looking town hall in the centre.
Zalpie painted houses

During our walk around, we found the regional museum. 

Popping in there, we happened upon a display of Gypsy culture and a celebration of Gypsy life in the area.

It was great to see original and colourful ‘campervans’, old and young people dancing, and the culture being celebrated.

We felt privileged to be there.

On the way back to camp we stopped off at the nearby park which had a Health and Wellbeing festival going on.

There was a good crowd of locals enjoying watching children on stage, along with lots of displays and food stalls. 

Again, lovely to see the local activities and celebrations first hand.

The drive out of Tarnów took us to Zalipie. This is a tiny village famous for art traditions and its floral painted houses.

Since the late 19th century the local women have been painting their houses inside and out with bright, floral patterns that are quite stunning.

Binarowa Wooden Church
We visited one of the old houses and every bit of furniture, the chimney and all the utensils were painted in the unique floral pattern.

We then moved on along a route of ancient wooden churches, stopping to see a number of them.

Some were closed but we were able to get inside the UNESCO listed one at Binarowa to see the most beautiful and very old frescos covering the walls and ceilings.

A lot of the old wooden churches are still being used by their local villagers for worship.

Getting to these churches involved a lot of driving over very narrow and bumpy roads, and avoiding cyclists and chooks which were all a little challenging!

We were going to stop in Rzeszów (pronounced jshezuf) for the night, but it proved to be rather industrial so we continued on to a camp in a little place called Pastewnik.

We were so tired after so much driving that we succumbed to dining in their restaurant.

Haczow Wooden Church
Great ‘real’ steaks and a locally brewed beer revived us!

The rain really set in that night so we decided to move on to Zamość (pronounced zamoshtsh) the next day.

Zamosc Rynek-Leigh
Luckily the weather brightened up a bit for driving; unluckily the roads we chose to go on had big holes filled with rain water, which made for a tiring drive.

Our Zamość campsite was basic but had a nice green outlook and short walk to the old town so that was OK.

The Zamość stare miasto (old town) is centred on an open square - the rynek. The square is surrounded by very attractive buildings with a colonnaded walkway underneath.

There was a very impressive town hall and we managed to get a tour of its underground rooms.

Our guide George, shared an amazing range of interesting facts of local Polish history and the fascinating past of this attractive UNESCO town.

The town was originally fully fortified with huge walls and a moat and swamp. It has seven bastions at strategic points and remnants of these are clearly visible and parts are restored to show the extent of them. It was very interesting.

We found Zamość to be a very compact town and extremely easy to walk around. It was also a great place to take a break before moving on to Ukraine.

We topped up one of our gas bottles there and the man doing the filling was so excited and amazed that we were from New Zealand or Nowa Zelandia, as they say here.

They all seem to know about us as country which is quite amazing and pleasing for us proud Kiwi’s.