Battambang (Cambodia)

We are currently travelling around Southeast Asia, and after leaving Phnom Penh, we grabbed a mini-bus going toward the north-west of Cambodia. Our destination was Battambang, 290 km away. In the small mini-bus, this would take us between 4 and 5 hours on the tarmac road.

Village house outside Pursat, Cambodia

The very fast driver stopped for lunch in Pursat. We had a bit of fun finding something that we felt we could safely eat, and had time to experience the interesting toilet there. Moving on it seemed that the further north we went, the drier and hotter it was with the temperature in the mid-40s. There had been a drought and there was dust everywhere, and because the land was red, so were the houses and shop products. Poverty was evident.

Marg cooling down in our hotel, Battambang, Cambodia

After about 6 hours, we arrived in Battambang and grabbed a remork (like a tuk tuk) to cover the final few kilometres to our accommodation, the Delux Villa Hotel. Thankfully it had great air-conditioning and also a fan, so we spent the rest of the afternoon cooling down.

Battambang, Cambodia

The next morning saw us walking out and about in downtown Battambang. Founded in the 11th century by the Khymer Empire, Battambang is now the 2nd largest city in Cambodia (population 200,000). It’s also Cambodia’s main rice-producing area.  

Lane in Battambang, Cambodia

One nice thing about Battambang is that it seemed very authentic and not touristy. There were plenty of shop-houses (a shop and home in one building), intriguing lanes to follow that gave a peek into local homes, and French Colonial architecture. Unfortunately, there was also plenty of rubbish in the street.

Dry riverbed at Tonle Sap, Battambang, Cambodia

We were here because we wanted to undertake what was labelled, “the most scenic river trip in the country that links Battambang with Siem Reap, across Tonle Sap”. However, that trip was not to be as the drought had dried up much of Tonle Sap and we couldn’t cross it by boat. Never mind, we had other things to see in Battambang so off we went.

Marg on the Bamboo Train, O Dambong II village, Cambodia

For our next adventure, we grabbed a remork and headed to the tiny village of O Dambong II on the outskirts of Battambang, to catch the bamboo train. The train, called a nori by the locals, is a flatbed on train wheels. It’s made of scrap metal from tanks and trucks left over from the war with Khmer Rouge. This whole affair is then overlaid with a bed of bamboo – hence “the bamboo train.”

The twisty rail line for the Bamboo Train, O Dambong II, Cambodia

The train travels on terribly wobbly old rail tracks originally built by the French. Notwithstanding the tracks, it can travel at a scary 40 kph powered by a motorbike or tractor engine. You sit cross legged or recline on the bamboo flatbed as there’s basically nothing to hold on to. Given this, the condition of the rails, and the speed, the ride is very much a white-knuckle, but exhilarating affair. 

Moving our train for an oncoming one, Bamboo Train ride

When another train approaches, the driver of each train lifts one of the flatbeds off its wheels, then takes the wheels off the track. The other train then passes through. Then they reassemble the thing and carry on – easy peasy. Having once only been a key form of transport for the locals, it is also now a tourist attraction and we really had fun on it. 

Village at end of Bamboo Train ride, O Dambong II, Cambodia

At the end of the line is a collection of bamboo homes and makeshift shops with chickens, kids, and Brahman cows. The shops sell drinks and trinkets but the people selling them are very pushy and they did not allow us to get on a returning train until we bought something – so we bought some water, caught the returning train, and then a remork back to Battambang. 

Water play for New Year celebrations, Battambang, Cambodia

We were in Battambang during the Cambodian New Year celebration, which marks the end of the traditional harvest season. One way of celebrating that is by throwing water and several times during our remork ride, we were the targets of good-natured water throwing by local kids. It was great fun. Especially as the temperature was in the 40s.

Marg in Battambang, Cambodia

We decided to stay only one night in Battambang, so that evening, went for a walk to see more of the city. Overall, we quite enjoyed Battambang’s vibe, food and people, but were looking forward to moving on. Our next stop is Siem Reap, and you can read about that in the next blog.

This post is the eleventh in a series about our travels through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia in South East Asia. The first post was about Bangkok and you can read it here: Bangkok post.