Da Nang and Hoi An (Vietnam)

We are currently travelling around Vietnam and have just left Hanoi. Next, we grabbed an overnight train, and headed south on a 13-hour journey. We were going to Da Nang and Hoi An, two very different places that sit on the South China Sea on Vietnam’s eastern coast. Both are known for their beautiful coastal beaches, and history.

Coastal views from the train to Da Nang, Vietnam

After several hours on the train, we began to get great views of the coast. But sleep had not been easy, with many stops along the route and other interruptions. We had an upper and a lower berth in a 4-berth “sharing” cabin, but after a few hours a man came in, jumped on the opposite top berth and slept until his stop; to be replaced by another who did the same. 

Marg on the overnight train to Da Nang, Vietnam

Also, the supplied sheets and pillows were not clean and fresh. Luckily, we had our sleeping bag liners that we used. However, while not comfortable about sharing our berth with strange men and the lack of clean linen, we did feel safe. At about 11.45 am, the train pulled into Da Nang station, where we disembarked and were met by a driver from the GoAsia Travel company who we were using for this part of our trip.

China Beach, Da Nang, Vietnam

Da Nang is Vietnam’s third largest city (pop about 1 mil). It’s located about half way between Hanoi and Saigon, and is over 3000 years old with an interesting history. However, it is currently known outside Vietnam as the place where the Americans set up a base during the Vietnam War, which is called the American War here. So our driver took us first, to beautiful Non Nuoc, or China Beach, made famous outside Vietnam when US soldiers were sent there for R & R during the war.

Dragon Bridge, Da Nang, Vietnam

We then popped in to Marble Mountain which is full of grottos and caves. Vietnamese soldiers used these caves as a hospital during the American War. We also crossed the amazing Dragon Bridge, which is designed and built in the shape of a dragon, and breathes fire and water each Saturday and Sunday night at 9:00 pm.

Hoi An (UNESCO), Vietnam

After a great tour around Da Nang we drove on to Hoi An, our destination for the next few days. Hoi An was a port for more than 2000 years, growing into a major trading hub by the 16th century. Its ancient old town is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and full of historic architecture, and we loved it the minute we saw it. So, after checking into our accommodation we headed out to walk around this beautiful old city. 

The waterfront in Hoi An (UNESCO), Vietnam

Our first stop was the waterfront. Hoi An is situated on the Thu Bon River which flows into the East China Sea. The Thu Bon acts as the main waterway and thoroughfare for the town and the waterfront area is still full of winding lanes, Chinese style shops, and narrow canals that reflect its history. It is very quaint and colourful.

 

Boats in Hoi An (UNESCO), Vietnam

The river and the canals are full of every type of boat you can imagine, with owners plying their trade from the water. With so many different types of boats on the river, we weren’t surprised to learn that the river is also used for everything else - from washing food, dishes and clothes, to washing bodies. We had a wonderful morning wandering along the river and canals watching the activity. 

Hoi An (UNESCO), Vietnam

Later, we visited ancient merchant houses, including the 200-year-old Tan Ky family house. We saw the Fujian temple, Chua Ong Pagoda, Chinese Assembly Hall, and Traditional Art Performance House, all painted a yellow colour and very interesting. We also walked around the attractive shops, then visited more historic places.

Leigh at the Japanese Bridge, Hoi An (UNESCO), Vietnam

One of our favourite sights was the beautiful Japanese Bridge. The Japanese used Hoi An as a trading port in the 16th and 17th centuries, and the bridge was built in the 1950s by the Japanese community to commemorate their history in Hoi An. The bridge forms a physical link to the Chinese quarters and is a lovely piece of Japanese architecture.

Mocktails at a bar in Hoi An, Vietnam

On one of our walks, we spotted a tailor that promised same day service. Leigh needed another short-sleeved shirt so we selected some material and she was measured up. With our Bangkok experience in mind (see Bangkok post), we made sure she (the tailor) measured twice! Happy with our day, we stopped for a delicious mocktail in a local bar, and watched the many people and activities nearby. 

Sandbagged beach for palm protection, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Vietnam

The next morning, we borrowed bicycles from our hotel and cycled to Cua Dai beach, about 5 km away on the East China Sea. The beach had recently been hit by a cyclone and there were sandbags along the shore line to help stop erosion from the high sea, and to protect the giant nipa palms on the beach (also called 'water coconut' palms). 

Man fishing, Cam Thanh, Hoi An, Vietnam

Peddling back, we found the interesting wee village of Cam Thanh, and passed many small houses and shops. As we cycled on, we saw locals tending their fields, water buffalo being used to plough, kids playing on the road, and men fishing in the river. It was an interesting picture of life in small villages.

Ruins at My Son, Hoi An, Vietnam

The next day, we had an outing to nearby My Son, a group of Hindu temple ruins and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The temples were built between the 4th and the 14th century by the Kings of Champa. At one time, the site encompassed over 70 temples as well as many inscribed monuments, and it is the longest inhabited archaeological site in Indochina. Sadly, a huge portion of it was destroyed by US bombers during a single week of the American War.

Ruins at My Son, Hoi An, Vietnam

Most of the temples were made of red brick with carvings cut directly into the brickwork, and no mortar was used between the bricks. We read that this is quite a unique style of construction. We finished the My Son trip with a boat ride on the Thu Bon River, which included a delicious Vietnamese lunch and plenty of sightseeing along the riverside.

The market in Hoi An (UNESCO), Vietnam

With one day left in Hoi An, we spent it in the beautiful old town again. After picking up Leigh’s new shirt, which looked great, we headed to the markets. We had already been to the night market which was very lively, but the day-time market was also interesting, selling absolutely everything that you could imagine.

Fish market in Hoi An (UNESCO), Vietnam

Our favourite part was the fish market, with the women sorting and preparing the day’s catch ready for sale. We really loved Hoi An, the heritage, the food, the colour, and the people, but it was time to move on. Early the next morning, we boarded a Vietjet plane – next stop Saigon.

This post is the eighth in a series about our travels through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia in South East Asia. The first post was about Bangkok and you can read it here: Bangkok post.