Da Nang and Hoi An

On the Reunification Express
We had a great time in Hanoi, and were now on an overnight train heading south, along the coast of Vietnam, on a 13-hour journey.

Our train was the Reunification Express, and we had an upper and a lower berth in a 4-berth “sharing” cabin.

Basically, we had the whole cabin to ourselves, except for a brief time where a couple of men came in and slept until their stop. 

However, after initial misgivings about strange men in our carriage, we felt safe.

Unfortunately, sleep did not come easily. The sheets and pillows supplied were not clean and fresh, as with the overnight train we used in Thailand. 
China Beach

Luckily, we had our sleeping bag liners that we used. But we were not very relaxed.

In daylight, the scenery was great, with stunning coastline on one side and exotic jungle on the other.

At about 11.45 am the next day, we got off the train in Da Nang, Vietnam’s 3rd largest city (over 1 mil people).

Dragon Bridge, Da Nang
It’s located about half way between Hanoi and Saigon. It’s over 3000 years old, but is known outside Vietnam mostly as where the Americans set up a base during the Vietnam War (called the American War here).

Our first stop was beautiful Non Nuoc or China Beach, made famous outside Vietnam, when US soldiers were sent there for R & R during the war.

We then popped in to Marble Mountain, full of grottos and caves. We also crossed the amazing Dragon Bridge.
Traditional Hoi An building (UNESCO)

The bridge was designed and built in the shape of a dragon, and to breathe fire and water each Saturday and Sunday night at 9:00 pm – which unfortunately we didn’t see.

Leaving Da Nang, we drove for about 40 minutes to Hoi An, our destination for the next few days.

Traditional Hoi An building (UNESCO)
Hoi An has an old town that is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

It’s full of architectural interest, culture and heritage.

We arrived at our accommodation, dropped our bags, and headed out to walk around this beautiful old city.

As we walked, we visited ancient merchant houses, including the 200-year old Tan Ky family house.
People watching

We saw the Fujian temple, the temple of the water genie, Chua Ong Pagoda, and the Chinese Assembly Hall. 

All painted a yellow colour and all very interesting.

We walked around the attractive shops, then visited more historic places.

Then we spotted a tailor. Leigh needed a short-sleeved shirt so we selected some material and she was measured up. 

Hoi An on the Thu Bon River
With our Bangkok experience in mind (see Bangkok blog), we made sure the tailor measured twice!

After a while, we stopped for a mocktail in a local waterfront bar, and watched the many people and activities nearby.

Hoi An is situated on the Thu Bon River, which acts as the main waterway for the town.

The town was a port in the 16th century, and the old centre still sits on the water and is full of winding lanes, Chinese style shops, and narrow canals.

Fisherman near Cua Dai village
The river and the canals support every type of boat you can imagine, with owners plying their trade from the water.

Everything from fishing boats, rice boats, and of course, passenger boats.

The river is also used for everything from washing food, dishes and clothes, to washing bodies.

Later, feeling energetic, we borrowed bicycles from our hotel and rode to Cua Dai beach, about 5 km away on the East China Sea.

The beach had recently been hit by a cyclone and there were sandbags along the shoreline to help stop erosion from the high sea.
Hoi An's beautiful Japanese Bridge

These sandbags were also there to protect the giant nipa palms on the beach (called 'water coconut' palms). The poor beach looked rather sad so we hoped it would recover soon.

Peddling back, we passed many small houses, waterways with men fishing, and people tending their fields.

Returning to Hoi An, one of our stops was the beautiful Japanese Bridge.

It was built in the 1590's by the Japanese community to link it with the Chinese quarters, and is a lovely piece of Japanese architecture.
Hoi An market-preparing the catch for sale

After picking up Leigh’s new shirt, which looked great, we then headed to the markets.

We had already been to the night market which was very lively, but the day-time market was so interesting.

It sells absolutely everything that you could imagine.

Our favourite part was the fish market, with the women sorting and preparing the day’s catch, ready for sale.

The next day, we had an outing to My Son, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

My Son is a group of Hindu temple ruins. 

My Son temple ruin (UNESCO)
The temples were built between the 4th and the 14th century by the Kings of Champa. At one time, the site encompassed over 70 temples..

It is apparently the longest inhabited archaeological site in Indochina. 

Sadly, a huge portion of it was destroyed by US bombers during a single week of the American War.

Most of the temples were made of red brick with carvings cut directly into the brickwork, and no mortar was used between the bricks. We read that this is quite a unique style of construction.

We finished the My Son trip with a boat ride on the Thu Bon River. This included a delicious Vietnamese lunch and plenty of sightseeing along the riverside.

We really loved Hoi An, the heritage, the food, the colour, and the people. But it was time to move on.

Early the next morning, we boarded a Vietjet plane – next stop Saigon. We are looking forward to seeing if this southern city is different to those further north.