Saigon and the Mekong Delta (Vietnam)

We’ve been travelling through Southeast Asia and recently had a great time in Vietnam’s Da Nang and Hoi An. Next, we flew to Saigon, or Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) as its currently called. HCMC is Vietnam’s largest city with over 7 million people, and its history dates back over 300 years to when it was a fishing village. But we flew into a modern-looking city.

Us in Nguyen Hue Square, Saigon

These days this huge city has a mix of ancient culture, French-colonial architecture, and modern skyscrapers, tied together by a compact historic centre, millions of eateries, and a gazillion motorbikes. We were there as part of our GoAsia Vietnam tour that we bought while home in New Zealand, and were using it as a base from which to seeing some sights in the surrounding area.

Leigh entering a tunnel at Cu Chi, Vietnam

So the next morning, we prepared to face the 40-degree heat as we waited to be driven to Cu Chi which is known for its defensive tunnels. Communist forces dug a network of tunnels under the jungle terrain of Cu Chi during their war of independence from the French in the 1940s. Digging started again during the anti-American War in the 1960s with around 200 km of tunnels being dug – all by hand.

Marg exiting a tunnel trapdoor at Cu Chi, Vietnam

The tunnels were used for supply routes, hospitals, food and weapon storage, and living quarters. Most were accessed through very small hidden trapdoors in the jungle floor, and usually surrounded by lethal booby traps. Although the tunnels were damp, riddled with ants, snakes, scorpions and the like, and very small (you could not stand up in most of them), they proved to be a very successful strategy for the Viet Cong in the war.

Leigh in one of the tiny tunnels, Cu Chi, Vietnam

We were allowed into one section of these small tunnels, and there were many displays depicting what life would have been like in them. Driving back to HCMC we reflected on our tunnel visit and thought they were grizzly, but ingenious, and so interesting. The next morning was also extremely hot as we drove to the Mekong Delta at the southernmost point of Vietnam.

Life on the Mekong Delta, Vietnam

The Mekong Delta is where the mighty Mekong empties into the South China Sea. Near the delta, the Mekong splits into a maze of smaller rivers, islands and swamps, that provide a rich environment for people to plant, harvest, build and live. We boarded a little motorised boat that took us into one of the smaller rivers to see what life was like there. 

Cai Be floating market, Mekong Delta, Vietnam

Our first stop was the Cai Be floating market. Our boat weaved its way through barges and small boats that were carrying fruit, vegetables, rice, and all sorts of stuff. You could even buy a hot lunch there. You can tell what goods a boat is selling, because a sample of it is hung on a tall pole to advertise. 

Market boats on the Mekong Delta, Vietnam

When you spot what you want to buy, you get to the right boat in your boat, and swap money for goods across the water. It was fascinating watching people doing their daily shopping in this way. Leaving the market area, we cruised along into the Upper Mekong Delta to some small villages in the Vinh Long area.

Coconut candy being wrapped, Vinh Long, Vietnam

We were going to visit some family businesses that produce goods from local resources. At one stop, we saw Vietnam’s famous coconut candy being made from local coconut trees. It was interesting to see how the family prepared the coconut, cooked it, cooled it, processed it then cut and wrapped each sweet individually ready to sell.

Us on Binh Hoa Phuc Island

Not long after, we arrived at Binh Hoa Phuc Island where we enjoyed a traditionally prepared and delicious seafood lunch, and watched a concert with traditional southern Vietnamese folk music. After lunch, we had 60 minutes to either cycle around the tiny island or hang about (literally) in one of the hammocks to sleep off the food. Leigh did the cycle while Marg opted for the hammock!

Women rowing traditional boats, Binh Hoa Phuc Island, Vietnam

While there, we bought a separate trip on a very small dug-out type of boat. The boat was paddled quietly through the meandering and narrow waterways by a small woman with giant oars. She rowed while standing on the stern and gently paddled us around a maze of very tiny tributaries, too small for bigger boats. 

Life on Binh Hoa Phuc Island, Vietnam

We saw homes with children playing in and around the river, and people doing their washing, men tending to their river-based crops, and other daily activities riverside. It was really interesting, and a little slice of Vietnam that we would not ordinarily have seen. 

Stilt houses in Vinh Long, Vietnam

Later, back on a bigger boat, we cruised past some of the tranquil-looking islands that dotted the river, seeing houses built on stilts. Once again, it was interesting to see how the river is used for everything in daily life. In New Zealand suburbs, you see a house with a car parked outside or in a garage. It was the same with the houses in Vinh Long, except what you saw parked was a boat.

Marg in HCMC/Saigon, Vietnam

After a really interesting day, we were driven back to HCMC. This ended our official tour with GoAsia, and we had really enjoyed it. But we had booked a few days for ourselves in HCMC, and were now really looking forward to getting out into the streets to have a look around. That night, we went out for a drink at one of the many nearby bars and did a bit of people watching. It seems like HCMC never sleeps.

A typically busy street in HCMC, Vietnam

It is very lively with lots of noise, busy looking people, street sellers, heaps of little shops, and many narrow streets and alleys full of activity. Wow, what an atmospheric place. Our hotel, the Sai Gon Silverland Central Hotel was located is District 1 in HCMC, and everything was right outside the door, including restaurants, and the main sights. The next morning, with map in hand, we headed off to see some of these sights.

Central Post Office, HCMC, Vietnam

Interestingly, you could still see much of the French influence in HCMC’s wide boulevards, street trees, beautiful mansions, and colonial architecture. Not surprising probably, as the French were in Vietnam for 100 years up to 1954. One of our favourite buildings, was the ornate Central Post Office that was designed by Gustave Eiffel, the same man who designed the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

Notre-Dame Cathedral, HCMC, Vietnam

Another was the Gothic style Notre-Dame Cathedral. This was the last thing we expected to see in largely Buddhist Vietnam. But apparently there are almost 6 million Catholic’s in Vietnam, and this cathedral is one of their most important places of worship.

People’s Committee Hall, HCMC, Vietnam

We also liked the French Colonial style People’s Committee Hall. This ornate building in its beautiful gardens, was originally built as the Hotel de Ville or City Hall. Over the two days by ourselves in HCMC, we saw very many other sights, including markets, museums, and temples. 

A clutch of motorcycles, HCMC, Vietnam

One sight that will stay with us is the huge number of motorcycles in the streets, alleys and lanes in HCMC. You not only see them lining up at the traffic lights or zooming by, but they are also parked absolutely everywhere including the footpath. Many of the riders wear masks to cover their nose and mouth, and we understood why as the bikes produce a lot of smoke and fumes.

A last-night cocktail in HCMC, Vietnam

On our last night in this exciting city, we went out for dinner then took a long walk, ending up with a cocktail at a nearby bar where we people watching for ages. We really liked HCMC and its vibrancy, and loved our time in Vietnam. But tomorrow we move on, and it’s out of Vietnam into Phnom Penh in Cambodia, but that’s in the next post.

This post is the ninth in a series about our travels through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia in South East Asia. The first post was about Bangkok and you can read it here: Bangkok post.