We were on the overnight train from Agra to the ancient and Holy city of Varanasi. After several long stops, we eventually pulled in at Varanasi Station at 6:30 am; about 1½ hours late. Undeterred, we checked in to our hotel, The Ganges Grand, then unpacked while we watched the city go by.
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| A few of the huge number of pilgrims in Varanasi |
The hotel was really well located in the old city, and our room overlooked a key intersection so it was a great place for people-watching.
We struck a time when there were thousands and thousands of pilgrims in the city. They had come to the Kumbha Mela Festival, a Hindu pilgrimage held every 12 years.
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| Part of the 500-metre-long queue of pilgrims waiting to enter the holy Shri Kashi Vishwanath temple, Varanasi |
From our window we watched swarm after colourful swarm of people, walking to the Ganges River to bathe in its holy water. They would then double-back to join a queue to worship at the Golden Temple of Shri Kashi Vishwanath, just up the road from our hotel.
It seems that the Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple is one of the most important places of worship in the Hindu religion. The devotion, fervour and patience that would have been required to line up for hours in the Varanasi heat to enter the temple, was almost overwhelming to witness.
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| Some of the temples in Varanasi |
It's not surprising that this temple is seen as so holy, as Varanasi is the holiest of Hindu cities and famous for its many Hindu temples. Apparently, there are over 1,000 of them that have been built over many, many years by various rulers, monasteries, communities and families, and the city is sometimes called, ‘The City of Temples’.
That afternoon, we set out for a walk through the Hindu part of the old city with Niwash, our guide, seeing temples, streets and architecture in this ancient city.
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Ancient buildings in narrow Varanasi old town
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The streets contained very basic homes, tiny shops, and Shiva Temples of every size. Many of the temples were built into the side of a house (to bring good luck).
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| A narrow street in Varanasi old town |
You also had to dodge the motor-cyclists who thought they could whizz around whatever was in front of them. Unfortunately, there was no room for them to go around you, and so you had to quickly move out of their way.
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| Monkey at the market, Varanasi |
Monkeys were also a hazard; they jumped across buildings, stole fruit and vegetables from street vendors and tossed stalks etc down at pedestrians.
During our walk, Niwash took us to his house in the old city where we met his wife and 8-year-old son. As we sat on a mat on his flat rooftop drinking chai/tea, Niwash proudly told us that his house had been passed down through four generations, and would eventually be his son’s.
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| Near Niwash's house, Varanasi |
We felt it was not polite to take photos of his house. However, it is very old and very narrow. It is three stories high with a concrete and earthen floor at the entry level, then concrete steps and floors at other levels. There are very few windows.
He was very proud of having an indoor toilet and running water. The water came into the house from the street via a hose with a tap attached, and it then drained back out into the street.
Leaving there, we visited many other key sights in Varanasi. Later, we headed back to our hotel for a respite from the heat and hustle of the day.
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| People on the banks of the Ganges for Ganga Aarti in Varanasi |
That evening we went down to the Dasawamedh Ghat (steps) on the Ganges River to watch the Ganga Aarti ceremony. This is a spiritual event that seemed to involve many priests performing synchronised ritualistic chanting and movement with fire, flowers, incense and other items aimed at sanctifying the atmosphere.
Niwash found us a spot on the ledge of a temple so we had a good view over the huge number of people below and behind.
Up behind us, was a group of Naga Sadhu, holy men with white painted skin. Some in incredible poses that twisted their limbs.
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| More people watching the Ganga Aarti, this time in boats |
On the Ganges River below, there were thousands of people watching from what seemed like hundreds of boats. It was a spectacular sight.
Leaving the Dasawamedh Ghat later, we agreed it had been worth the hustle and bustle of the pulsating crowd to see this spectacular event.
The next morning we were up very early, as we were going for a boat ride on the Ganges to see the sun rise. What we saw was beautiful and worth every bit of the early start.
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| The sun rising, and moon setting-visible at the same time |
A huge red sun slowly rose over the river and in the opposite direction, we could see the still large full moon, pale in the sky.
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| Crematoriums on riverside ghats in Varanasi |
The pyres of the riverside crematoriums burn constantly to accommodate the up to 300 people who are burned here every day.
The smoke and smell of the pyres inundates the city and river but the rituals of cremation and release of ashes into the river, are important to Hindus who believe that being cremated will free them from the cycle of rebirth, while the river cleanses the soul.
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| Pilgrims bathing in the holy water of the Ganges River |
Further up the river on the river bank, we saw many pilgrims washing in the Ganges. The Ganges is considered the holiest river in India, so Hindus wash in the river-water believing the sacred waters will wash away their sins.
The next day we visited Sarnath, about 10 kms from Varanasi. Sarnath is known as the place where Buddha delivered his first sermon, and it has become one of the holiest Buddhist sites in the world.
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| The Japanese Buddhist Temple at Sarnath, Varanasi |
Many Buddhist countries have built temples and monasteries in Sarnath and while we were there, we saw temples from Japan, Thailand, Tibet and other nations, as well as ancient temple ruins.
Sarnath seemed to be a quieter area and much cleaner in parts than Varanasi. Returning to Varanasi later, we felt it had been a good day, getting out of the hustle and bustle of Varanasi old town.
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| Varanasi hustle and bustle |
Walking around Varanasi was a challenge because of the sheer number of people, vying transport methods, and animals. The cacophony of noise was unbelievable, but the whole experience was wonderful.
Time to move on – our next stop is Delhi and the end of our organised tour. We then head off to see the rest of India on our own, beginning with a trip to Kaziranga National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The above blog is part of our 2-month tour of India. The first blog on this tour is called "Off to Delhi".