Wales to Wexford then Hook, Cork and Killarney

Driving off the ferry from Wales into the Republic of Ireland at Rosslare, we realised that we needed Euro instead of UK Pounds. Oops – too late as there were no ATMs or money exchange places at the Rosslare ferry terminal. Nevertheless, we carried on into Ireland heading to Wexford for the night. 

The pretty harbour at Wexford, Ireland
We were in our motorhome Vtee and once in Wexford, found a campsite right on the waterfront. It was well located, giving us easy access to local pubs and food places, and we had a great view of the bay and the city.
 
After a lovely seafood meal at a local pub, we had our first night in Ireland (paid by credit card as we still had no Euro cash!).

The next morning, we drove south to the Hook Peninsula to see the Hook Lighthouse.

Hook Peninsula, Ireland
The Peninsula is a beautifully haunting area of windswept farms, ancient stone walls, and airy ruins. You just can’t help thinking about it as a bit of lost history.

At its point is the lighthouse, and the lighthouse is magnificent. 

It’s a solid looking, black-and-white stripped structure that looks like it is firmly rooted in the surrounding terrain. It stands proudly at the head of the Hook Peninsula above a wild rocky coast.

Leigh at Hook Lighthouse, Hook Peninsula, Ireland
This old dear is still guiding shipping as it did when it was built in the 13th century. It is the oldest lighthouse in Europe, and one of the oldest operational lighthouses in the world.

Driving further around the Hook, we passed Loftus Hall which is supposed to be Ireland’s most haunted house – we didn’t stop to find out! 

Then we followed narrow, winding but well-marked roads to Ballyhack, a tiny wee fishing hamlet on the eastern shore of the Waterford Harbour. 

Waterford Harbour at Ballyhack, Ireland
We caught a small car ferry from Ballyhack, across the harbour to another hamlet called Passage East. 

At this stage we still hadn’t picked up any Euros. We asked the ferryman if we could pay in Pounds and he said “yes” (whew thinks us) … “but it’s one-to-one” meaning that we paid £12 instead of €12 so a little more expensive in our New Zealand dollars, but we made the transaction anyway.

Leaving the ferry, it was an easy drive into Waterford where we found an ATM and withdrew some Euros. 

Marg in the Viking Triangle, Waterford, Ireland
Waterford is the oldest city in Ireland. It’s known for its Viking history which is centred on the town’s Viking Triangle.

We had fun exploring the area, which includes Reginald’s Tower, a round stone fortification (circa-1003). The Tower is now set up to inform people about the history of the Viking arrival and survival in Waterford.

Waterford is also known for its crystal. Waterford Crystal began here in 1783 and we visited the Waterford Crystal shop. 

Unique piece at Waterford Crystal, Waterford, Ireland
There were some absolutely extraordinary items for sale at absolutely extraordinary prices. We didn’t buy anything!

Although we were in Waterford and so far from home, we managed to meet up with New Zealand friends, John and Ann. They had not long arrived in Ireland and were staying fairly close-by, so we arranged to have a catch up.

Pub and pedestrian street in Wexford, Ireland
We found a local, old, and character-filled pub, and had a lovely time together. Note that coffee and tea were the substance of our menu, not alcohol, as we all had to drive on again that day.

Leaving Waterford, the Vikings, John and Anne, and a lovely afternoon, we headed on toward Cork. We were soon there and looking for our next campground.

Cork on the River Lee
After a few GPS related hiccups that included more narrow roads, we finally arrived at Camping Blarney, the nearest camp to Cork that we could find.  Camping Blarney proved to be a pleasant stop. It’s about half an hour’s walk into Blarney Village where we were able to catch a bus in to Cork city.

Cork (Pop. 208,000 in 2016), sits on the River Lee. The River is crisscrossed by a number of bridges that take you across the city. The bridges and the many walkways, lanes and arcades, make Cork really easy to get around. 

St Fin Barre's Cathedral, Cork, Ireland
One of Cork's highlights for us was St Fin Barr's Cathedral, an imposing building rising majestically above the surrounding houses.

Its stunning design is by architect William Burges whose plans were picked from dozens of design entries in 1862.

We also enjoyed walking along the interesting walls of the City Fort, and we explored the English Market which was full of lots of different foods. We were drawn to the olives and salamis on one stall and made some yummy purchases.

Leigh in Cork's Shandon Quarter
We walked across one bridge and up steep steps into an historic area, called the Shandon Quarter. This is a mix of old houses, churches and theatres built on tiny winding streets. It was an interesting old area with a lived-in look.

Later in the day, we found our way back to our bus stop and caught the bus back to Blarney Village.

But instead of going back to our campsite, we walked on a few miles to the 15th century Blarney Castle, which is set in beautiful park-like grounds.

Us near the top of Blarney Castle
We decided to join the very long queue to get into the castle, at the top of which is the famous Blarney Stone, said to give the "gift of the gab" to those who kiss it.

After about an hour and a half, and climbing up some stairs that became increasingly narrow, we finally made it to the famous stone.

Marg kissing the Blarney Stone at Blarney Castle, Cork, Ireland
To kiss the Blarney Stone, you had to lie on your back, hold onto some poles, and reach down backwards. All very tricky!

Leigh decided she is already full of the blarney, so only Marg did the kissing-thing. 

We’ll wait and see who has the blarney now!

The time came to move on and we headed west to Killarney, which gave us access to the huge Killarney National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Muckross House in Killarney National Park (UNESCO), Killarney, Ireland
Driving through the National Park, we stopped at Muckross House, which is a 19th century Victorian mansion set in beautiful grounds on the edge of a lake. A very pretty place to wander around.

We also visited the Ross Castle which is a 15th century tower house, also set in lovely grounds, but with a river running through it. 

Shops in pretty Killarney, Ireland
But the highlight of the area for us, was Killarney town itself. It’s a gorgeous place full of 19th century buildings with very pretty shops, pubs and houses, and some lovely street art. It was a delight to walk around.

Getting back into Vtee later, we did another lap of the town, then drove onwards to the Ring of Kerry, our next destination. We are really looking forward to the Ring as we've heard that it's a challenge drive. But that's in the next blog.

This is part of a bigger blog on our travels around England, Wales, Ireland, Scotland, Belgium and Luxembourg. The first blog is called "Off to do the UK in a motorhome".