Mt Cook - The highest mountain

We are on a road trip around the South Island of New Zealand (NZ) in our motorhome, and just visited the south-eastern coast. Then we turned north to visit the mountains, and suddenly, in the distance, there was a hazy view of Aoraki/Mt Cook, the highest mountain in NZ at 3,724 metres.

Distant but alluring Aoraki/Mt Cook at the end of Lake Pukaki (UNESCO), NZ

Its pointy cone was cloaked in a vague mantle of snow, and framed by a vivid blue sky and lake, underscored by green and gold vegetation; it took our breath away. We stopped to take photos many times, marvelling at its majesty.

Nestled into the Southern Alps, it sits within the Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where there are more than 140 peaks over 2,000 metres high, and 72 named glaciers

The long road to Aoraki/Mt Cook (UNESCO), NZ

This giant is visible from so far away that it seemed to take a long time to meet it face-to-face. It was like a promise of something magical that was just out of reach. But when we finally arrived, it didn’t disappoint! It was wonderful.

The DOC campsite at Mt Cook Village, Aoraki/Mt Cook (UNESCO), NZ

We drove through the tiny Mt Cook Village, to the Department of Conservation (DOC) campsite, as we were planning to stay for a few nights. The camp has drinking water and flushing toilets – a luxury for DOC - but no electricity. We settled in beside an assortment of big vans, small vans, and tents. 

Sunrise over Mt Sefton viewed from our campsite, Mt Cook Village, Aoraki/Mt Cook (UNESCO), NZ

The campsite is located right under Mt Sefton, and we had a spectacular view of the mountain at sunrise. But, at the end of the day when the sun went down, suddenly so did the temperature – we turned our heater on and snuggled down inside our motorhome. It was beautifully dark and very quiet.

Night sky at Aoraki/Mt Cook (UNESCO), NZ

Now and again, we popped outside to view the night sky. Every night was crisp, clear and beautiful with the Milky Way showing in all its starry glory. 

Aoraki/Mt Cook is part of an “International Dark Sky Reserve”, and one of only around 21 across the world. Dark Sky Reserves are places where ambient light is managed to preserve the night sky.

Mischievous keas at the DOC campsite, Aoraki/Mt Cook (UNESCO), NZ

We were woken very early every morning by a noisy clutch of kea. They screeched and jumped on all the vans and tents trying to peck everything black or shiny. We found it funny, until they landed on us.

So we dashed outside to shoo them off and were surprised by the huge audience of campers photographing the antics of these birds on our van. They eventually did move, but not before thumping and banging across our roof. They are big birds - no more sleep for us that morning!

Helicopter for our flight over the Tasman Glacier, Aoraki/Mt Cook (UNESCO), NZ

The next morning, we took a helicopter flight up onto the Tasman Glacier for a two-hour walk on the ice. After a briefing, we jumped into the helicopter with the pilot, a guide and three other people. Being the smallest of the passengers, we scored the front seat next to the pilot and loved it. The view of the mountains and glaciers from the air was magical.

Beginning of the Tasman Glacier (UNESCO), NZ

This glacier is New Zealand’s largest at 27 km (17 mi) long, 4 km (2.5 mi) wide and 600 m (2,000 ft) thick, it covers an area of 101 sq km (39 sq mi), starting at a height of 3,000 ms (9,800 ft) above sea level. Unfortunately, the glacier is retreating at an alarming rate, and we wanted to see it before it retreats much further.

Walking on the Tasman Glacier (UNESCO), NZ

After landing on the ice, we stepped onto the 2-million-year-old glacier. Wow! It was an unbelievable feeling being on that ancient ice. We had jackets and boots provided by the tourist company, and used crampons to walk on the ice. It wasn’t difficult, as long as we watched out for large crevices. 

Entering an ice-cave on the Tasman Glacier (UNESCO), NZ

We followed our guide, Rich, and found several ice caves, with a couple being big enough for us to enter. An ice cave is formed when water flows into and through the glacial ice, melting the surrounding ice. Some that we saw were quite small, but as Rich explained, he could come back in two or three days and these would be much bigger and others formed. The ice is constantly moving and changing.

Marg in an ice cave and exploring (top), Leigh going into an ice cave and looking into a crevice

The blueness of the ice, especially inside the ice caves was incredible. We walked around for ages, exploring, and seeing glacial melt in the ice crevices, waterfalls, and interesting geological forms. We spent two hours being guided up, down and around the most amazing ice-scape. Then too soon, it was time to get back to our helicopter and begin the flight home.

Mueller Hut seen from the helicopter, Aoraki/Mt Cook (UNESCO), NZ

On the return flight, we flew close to the 1,000 m high (3,200 ft) Hochstetter Icefall on the eastern face of Aoraki/Mt Cook, past the Mueller Hut built for mountaineers and perched precariously at 1800 m above sea level, and over several smaller glaciers. 

Then we soared over more snow laden slopes, before landing back at Mt Cook Airport. It was an amazing experience, and we enjoyed every moment of it.

Leigh and our Tasman Glacier helicopter, Aoraki/Mt Cook (UNESCO), NZ

Leaving the helicopter after landing, we realised how hungry we were. We’d been out right through lunch time and now it was quite late. With the village café closed, we visited the Hermitage Hotel for some very expensive food and wine, enjoyed while admiring the mountains through their big front windows.

Hooker Valley, Aoraki/Mt Cook (UNESCO), NZ

After a quick visit to Marg’s friend Bridget who was also visiting the mountains, we headed back to camp. The next morning there was a low mist, but thankfully, not as many kea. Then as the cloud lifted and the sun emerged, we went for a walk up the Hooker Valley to get a bit closer to Aoraki/Mt Cook.

One of the three swing bridges on the Hooker Track walk, Aoraki/Mt Cook (UNESCO), NZ

The Hooker track walk was a hot but easy 10 km, with three swing bridges to cross each way. The track is well formed and maintained, with boardwalks over wetland areas, and good signposting. 

We saw wildflowers that are unique to alpine regions including the Mount Cook buttercup which is the world’s biggest, had majestic alps in our sights for most of the way, and heard the rumblings of distant avalanches. It was great.

Aoraki/Mt Cook with the scree-covered Hooker Glacier and its lake beneath, as seen from the Hooker Valley Track, Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park (UNESCO), NZ

We eventually reached the end of the Valley finding the Hooker glacial lake with its scree-covered glacier at the end, and fantastic views of Aoraki/Mt Cook. We decided the hot walk had been worth it.

The temperature really dropped that night, and it was very chilly the next morning as we got ready to move on. We were very sad to be saying goodbye to the beautiful scenery and peacefulness of this magical area.

Aoraki/Mt Cook, the highest peak looking over Lake Pukaki, NZ

We drove back alongside stunning Lake Pukaki, and stopped at the bottom of the lake. The view over the deeply blue lake back up to the mountains was superb. The lake colour is created by ice moving along glacier beds and grinding rock to make a mineral-rich powder, that then becomes suspended in the water.

Lake Tekapo, Aoraki/Mt Cook (UNESCO), NZ

We visited the Lake Pukaki Visitor Centre and bought some Mt Cook Alpine Salmon sashimi for lunch – very yummy! Then, happy and with full tummies, we drove on to nearby Lake Tekapo. Like Lake Pukaki, it is a very blue-coloured lake and is famous for its historic stone Anglican Church of Good Shepheard which sits overlooking the lake.

Church of the Good Shepard, Lake Tekapo, NZ

Built in 1935 as a memorial to early settlers, the church’s simple architecture and idyllic location has made it widely photographed. 

Leaving Tekapo we drove east, stopping briefly in Fairlie. Leigh had heard they had award winning pies and wanted to try one. However, we decided they were not as good as the ones we’d enjoyed in Ōamaru! Still travelling east, we were headed towards Christchurch. But you can read about that in the next blog.

This is part of a bigger blog on our travels around the South Island of New Zealand. The first blog is called NZ's South Island in a motorhome.