Shaken and stirred in Madagascar on our travels there

In our travels, we’ve been touring eastern Africa and recently spent time in Malawi. Then we flew to Madagascar, the home of lemurs and exotic plants. We’d planned a tour there and had been really looking forward to it. But driving around Madagascar, we were shaken by the atrocious roads and dire living conditions, but stirred by the richness of its unique animals, plants, and landscapes.

The Alley of Baobabs at sunset, Morondava, Madagascar

Madagascar is an island in the Indian Ocean around 400 km east of southern Africa. Since breaking off from India around 88 million years ago it became isolated, resulting in the growth of some very unique animals and plants. One plant is the huge baobab tree. But beneath these towering trees that have seen it all over their 2800 or so years, is a story of struggle, because about 75% of Madagascar’s 30 million people, live in poverty.

Skyline of Antananarivo, Madagascar

We flew into Madagascar’s capital, Antananarivo (Tana), and were met by our tour guide Moses. He drove us to our hotel in the city centre, and we found it was clean and contemporary. Nearby was a modern restaurant where we enjoyed a wonderful meal while chatting to the owner about Madagascar’s economic hardship.

Sample of architecture in Antananarivo, Madagascar

Madagascar was colonized by the French in 1895, and gained independence in 1960, with Tana becoming its capital. We had a walk around Tana, and despite its slightly dilapidated state, we found it colourful and interesting, with its unusual French and Asian inspired architecture, winding cobblestone streets, and long stairways.

Transport in Antananarivo, Madagascar

But the city still relies on rustic transport methods that work alongside modern transport. The standard transport, other than cars which most cannot afford, is the bicycle. We also saw a lot of handcarts and bullock carts. Outside the city centre later, we saw many tuk-tuks, cyclos and rickshaws in use. 

Rice fields and shanty towns on edge of Antananarivo, Madagascar

After a night in Tana we drove east, and on the city fringe saw acres and acres of bright green rice fields, backed by brown shanty houses. Rice is the staple diet of Malagasy people, but the city council is filling in some of the rice fields to build houses for a growing population, worsening the current food shortage.

Washing day in the rural villages east of Antananarivo, Madagascar

Our eastern route took us through tropical forests, more rice fields, and many villages. It must have been laundry weather that day, because we saw lots villagers washing clothes in streams or in rice water, and laying them on the grass to dry in the scorching sun. There is no running water into houses, so people rely on streams and communal water-pumps.

Coquerel's Sifaka lemur, 2 chameleons and a Painted mantella frog at Pyereras Reptile Reserve, Madagascar

Our first stop heading east, was the Pyereras Reptile Reserve where we had a long and hot trek through the jungle in search of lemurs, a primate unique to Madagascar. Then, wow, we spotted a pretty Coquerel's Sifaka lemur with a baby. Madagascar has 107 species of lemur but 33 of them are critically endangered, including the Sifka. We also saw a variety of chameleons, frogs and butterflies.

Farming village near Andasibe, Madagascar

After that, we continued our drive east to the town of Andasibe. The route was slow as we had to follow trucks for most of the way and the road was shockingly holed. We went through many farming villages with people milling about in local dress, various forms of transport in use, and roadside stalls surviving despite the huge number of trucks gasping by.

A Diademed Sifaka Lemur mid-jump, Andasibe Mantadia National Park, Madagascar

Not far from the town, we arrived at Andasibe Mantadia National Park where we had a guided trek through a huge tropical rain forest. There are nine species of lemur there and while wading through the jungle we saw several of them, including the colourful but critically endangered Diademed Sifaka, a tall lemur at 50 - 55 cm (excluding its tail).

Indri lemur at Andasibe Mantadia National Park, Madagascar

We also saw Indri lemurs with their cute ears and massive feet. Also critically endangered, Indris are one of the largest lemurs, averaging 64–72 cm. Indris are famous for their song, and we were privileged to hear their chorus of loud but rhythmic howling - it made the hairs on our arms stand up. They are the only mammal that can use rhythm.

(From top L) Black & White Ruffed, Red Ruffled, Bamboo, and Brown lemurs on Lemur Island, Madagascar

Later we visited Lemur Island where we saw Black and White Ruffed lemurs, Red Ruffed lemurs, tiny Bamboo lemurs, Brown lemurs, and more Diademed Sifakas. The Sifakas are often called the dancing lemur because while on the ground, they sort of skip sideways while throwing their arms up.

Chickens and manioc sold beside the main road from Andasibe, Madagascar

After two days we drove south, through villages with roadside stalls selling everything from pots to vegetables, raw chicken, and fish. But then our car broke down, so we were dropped at a roadside restaurant to wait while our driver had it repaired. But after 4 hours there, and another 2 hours on the road beside the repair shop, it was dark. So, we insisted on a hotel for the night rather than driving on.

Some of the diabolical holes in the RN7 road, Madagascar

The next morning, guide Moses announced that the car was fixed, so we continued our drive south. We were on the notorious RN7 road. But it was full of crater-sized potholes, and they were in clusters around every few kilometres so we averaged 30 km per hour at best. Bracing and hanging on with the constant hole-dodging was so tiring.

Some of the great views along the RN7, Madagascar

Then the car broke down again! So we waited in the 28ᵒ C heat while the driver fixed it roadside. Cars here have the window-up-window-down method of air con, so we were quite hot. The only bright spot is that we were in the agricultural-bowl of Madagascar, and the views of the surrounding rice fields were beautiful.

Tall houses along the RN7, Madagascar

While we were in this area, we saw charming tall houses siting in rich red soils. There are 18 different tribes in Madagascar, and they each have a region, and different dialects and ways of building their houses. Although picturesque, they have no running water or electricity, a hole in the ground toilet, and charcoal for cooking.

Tall house near Ranomafana, Madagascar

They are narrow 2-story houses that take only a small bit of land, leaving more space to plant crops. The car broke down several times during this drive and coupled with the potholes, the drive took 4-hours longer than planned so we didn’t arrive at our next destination until after 8:00 pm. Thankfully, our hotel was modern and clean, and with good local food.

Endangered Milne-Edward's sifaka, Ranomafana Nat Pk (UNESCO), Madagascar

The next morning, we set off on a guided trek looking for lemur in the Ranomafana National Park, a rainforest in south-eastern Madagascar and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After a hot search up and down the hilly terrain, we found endangered Milne-Edward's sifakas, Black and White Ruffed lemurs, and Bamboo lemurs. It was a great trek.

Chameleons & tiny Brown Mouse lemur, Ranomafana Nat Pk (UNESCO), Madagascar

That night, we went on a walk to spot chameleon. As a result of its geographic isolation, 90% of Madagascar’s wildlife is not found anywhere else on earth, and it houses 50% of the world's chameleon population. We spotted many, and while trapped in our lights we managed to get a good look at them. We also spotted a timid and tiny Brown Mouse lemur.

Traffic in Antsirabe, Madagascar

Leaving Ranomafana, we drove back north and had a night in Antsirabe. We had to stop to fill the car’s radiator many times on the long hot, bumpy, and hilly drive. Antsirabe is a huge market city, and we drove through the streets very slowly, in traffic thick with trucks, cyclos, rickshaws, tuk tuks, bullock carts, and overfull mini-buses.

Simple houses going west of Antsirabe, Madagascar

The next morning, we drove to the west. As we crossed into a different region, we noticed the land became gradually drier, the houses simpler, and the villages less prosperous. We had plenty of time to check this out, because we spent so much time on the side of the road while our driver tried to fix the car again, and again……!

Dry land with a woman at the back bagging stones for sale, Madagascar

We also saw government contractors filling holes in the road with gravel, while in the areas they had finished, women and children collected the gravel and bagged it for sale - anything to get an income. After more car breakdowns and terrible roads, we finally reached the sizeable town of Miandrivazo by dinner-time, instead of 2:00 pm. 

Leigh at the Alley of the Baobabs (UNESCO), Madagascar

We had one night in Miandrivazo in a nice hotel, but it was so, so hot. The next morning, we set out for Morondava on Madagascar’s western coast. But before we reached Morondava city, we took a short detour to the Alley of the Baobabs, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is home to huge and unique long-living baobab trees.

People sitting under a Baobab at the Alley of the Baobabs (UNESCO), Madagascar

These prehistoric trees are known as the ‘tree of life’ because they thrive in adverse conditions, have edible leaves and fruit, and a trunk that stores water and can be used to make rope, cloth, canoes, and tools. It is a revered tree here.

Busy Morondava city, Madagascar

The ones we saw in the Alley of the Baobabs and around Morondava, are about 30 m in height, and are some of only a few that remain following years of agricultural deforestation and fires. Leaving the Alley, we drove into the town of Morondava. This busy place was throbbing with people, products, and purpose.

Housing on the track to Belo sur Mer, Madagascar

The next morning, we drove south along a sandy, bumpy and winding track to a beach commune called Belo sur Mer. On the way, we saw many communes where the houses were a framework of sticks woven together and packed with mud, and with reed roofs. The poverty we saw along this route was heart-breaking.

Kids not at school on the track to Belo sur Mer, Madagascar

As we drove, we saw children working the village water pump, winnowing rice, and doing other work. Children in the poorest families don’t go to school, and it’s not uncommon for girls to birth two children by the time they are 14 years old. Madagascar is a land rich in the tapestry of its landscape, but its people are not reaping the rewards of it. 

Some of the traps on the track to Belo sur Mer, Madagascar

The route was difficult and after the constant car breakdowns, getting bogged in the soft sand, and stopping countless times to ask directions in the poorest villages we had ever seen, we finally arrived in Belo sur Mer 4-hours later than planned. We'd travelled with the window open to get air in the 32ᵒ C heat, so by the time we arrived, we felt like a couple of air-fried chooks.

Views from our apartment at Belo sur Mer, Madagascar

But Belo was a welcome break. We were in a quiet resort on a tidal lagoon, and had great views of the water and the benefit of its breezes. We could see fisher-people walking across the lagoon to throw their nets in the sea beyond the sand dunes, boats waiting for the incoming tide, and lots of other activity. We loved it.

Working with the sea in Belo sur Mer, Madagascar

Belo is a tiny boat-building and fishing community. On a walk along the golden sand of the ocean beach, we saw fisher-people shanties along the beachfront, people mending nets, and boats being built and sailed. We wanted to stay longer, but our tour was now at an end. So after insisting on a different car to return to Morondava, we arrived there in 4 hours instead of 8, then flew from there back to the capital, Tana.

Fishing to survive in Belo sur Mer, Madagascar

Madagascar has really challenged us. In all of our teaching, community, social, and strategic work, we’ve believed that education is the key to changing the cycle of poverty. But the short time we spent in Madagascar has caused us to re-think. Even the educated people here can’t get jobs, especially jobs that pay enough to beat the poverty cycle.

Simply playing at Belo sur Mer, Madagascar

It was with heavy hearts that we boarded our plane to Johannesburg for a short break, before our flight home to New Zealand. Our travel in eastern Africa has been rewarding with many sightings of animals in the wild, and visits to rural villages and UNESCO sites, but sobering in our awareness of the fight ahead for east Africa, which has some of the world’s poorest countries.

This blog is part of a series on our travels in eastern Africa. The first in this series is called Johannesburg, South Africa.