The Kimberleys (West Aust)

We are on a road trip around Australia’s south, centre and west, with our most recent stop being in Darwin at the top end of Australia’s Northern Territory (NT). Since then, we’ve crossed the border into the top end of Western Australia (WA) and are driving through the Kimberleys, some of which we saw by helicopter. 

Us, about to board a helicopter ride over the Bungle Bungles, WA

But the helicopter ride was several days into our Kimberley experience. First, we had to cross the border, and after eating all of our fresh produce the night before, we crossed into WA easily with no quarantine issues. However, it was much warmer in the Kimberleys, with our temperature gauge regularly showing 38 degrees or more.

The road west in the Kimberleys, WA

Driving in WA, the roads were initially quite narrow compared to those in the NT. But instead of the flat desert-like vista of the NT, we had mountain ranges. The Kimberley region is known for its rugged ranges, stunning gorges, and beautiful lakes and it all unfolded before us as we drove the long distances between towns on very straight roads.

Lake Argyle, Kimberley, WA

Our first stop in WA was at the beautiful Lake Argyle, Australia’s largest freshwater man-made reservoir by volume, holding an amazing 32 million cubic metres of water – it's apparently 20 times bigger than Sydney Harbour! As we drove around the lake, you could see people enjoying its beautiful blue water, and its many islands.

Lilly Creek Lagoon from our campsite, Kununurra, WA

Leaving the lake, we drove to nearby Kununurra, a smallish (pop 5,500) service town established in 1961 as part of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme, and now considered the capital of the East Kimberley region. We scored a great campsite on the banks of the Lilly Creek Lagoon and as the temperatures were around 46 degrees, we just rested, saw some lovely sunsets, watched the birdlife, and not much else.

Ivanhoe Crossing, Kimberleys, WA

When we did move on, we visited a place called Ivanhoe Crossing. This is a concrete causeway connecting the road from Kununurra to the town of Wyndham. However, the water levels fluctuate a lot, and for much of the time the causeway is under water. The locals seem to find it a great drive, even though there are multiple signs advertising the presence of crocodiles.

The Diversion Dam over the Ord River, Kimberleys, WA

A little further on, we stopped for a wee break at the Diversion Dam which crosses the Orde River, one of 33 waterways that criss-cross the Kimberleys. Built in 1964, it was the first stage of the Ord Irrigation Scheme and has 20 gates that raise or lower the water level of Lake Kununurra. 

The Grotto (top), and Maggie’s Valley, Kimberleys, WA

Next, we stopped at The Grotto, a local swimming hole with 140 rustic stone steps that descend to the base of a shallow gorge – we didn’t use them! There is usually a waterfall but not in the dry season. We also stopped to admire the pretty Maggie’s Valley. 

View driving into Wyndham, Kimberleys, WA

Then we arrived in the wee port town of Wyndham (pop 941) which dates back to 1886. There’s not a lot to see there except a giant crocodile statue, and the harbour. However, it is important as WA’s northernmost port, providing an export hub for live cattle, iron ore, and nickel, and as an import point for fuel and general freight.

View over the Wyndham port from the Five Rivers Lookout, WA

While we were in Wyndham, we drove up an incredibly steep road into the Bastion Ranges to the Five Rivers Lookout. The five rivers are the Ord, Forrest, King, Durack and Pentecost. The view over the rivers and Wyndham port was spectacular, and we also enjoyed a wee cooling breeze in the 42-degree heat.

A fire just taking hold (top), and still burning (below), Kimberleys, WA

Leaving Wyndham, we drove west along the Great Northern Highway, into hot, steamy and dramatic weather that included a lot of lightning. It was all around us, making us feel quite vulnerable in large Ixi. Then as we drove on, we were bombarded with big, fat and heavy drops of rain making the road quite slippery. Not long after, we drove through several small bushfires. It was an entertaining drive!

Distinctive coloured rocks in Purnululu National Park (UNESCO), Kimberleys, WA

Finally, we reached our stop for that night which was a roadhouse in the Aboriginal community of Warmun. We were there because we could get a helicopter ride to the Bungle Bungles in Purnululu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Bungle Bungles are cone-shaped sandstone rocks that are 250 million years old, that are surrounded by colourful canyons.

The Bungle Bungles in Purnululu National Park (UNESCO), Kimberleys, WA

Shaped by the weather over millennia, the rocks rise 300 metres above the surrounding plains, and are a distinctive striped orange colour. These amazing rock formations have been used for shelter, ceremonial purposes, art, and burials by Aboriginal tribes for thousands of years. It was well over 40 degrees down among the rocks to we were glad to be in the air. The views were amazing. 

The dry Fitzroy River, Fitzroy Crossing, Kimberleys, WA

Leaving Warmun, we were still driving west. Then after a brief look at the historic and small town of Halls Creek on the edge of the Great Sandy Desert, we stopped for the night in Fitzroy Crossing. We stayed at the Fitzroy River Lodge right beside the very dry Fitzroy River. It was another hot day with temperatures at 42 degrees. Thank goodness we have air con.

Ancient boab tree at a rest area near Derby, Kimberleys, WA

The next morning, we moved on to the town of Derby at the edge of King Sound near the mouth of the Fitzroy River. This area is known as Boab Country because there are many boab trees, and they are found exclusively in this region. It’s thought that these boabs reached Australia by crossing the Indian Ocean from Africa and Madagascar via the weather or migrating populations.

The Boab Prison Tree, Derby, Kimberleys, WA

The boab is a sacred tree to many peoples as it provides water, food, medicine, and shelter. A famous Derby boab that we saw is called the Boab Prison Tree. It’s about 1,500 years old and 14 metres around. It has a hollow trunk that was used in the 1800’s as a prison for Aboriginal people taken into slavery. 

 

“Contemplation” sculpture on the marsh, Derby, Kimberleys, WA

Derby is also known for its history, arts, and having the highest tides in Australia with a difference of over 11 meters between low and high tide. So we visited the tidal flats to see one of the most spectacular art galleries in Australia. Called “Sculpture on the Marsh”, the site displays eight amazing installations depicting local life and people. 

Brolgas (L), Black Cockatoos (top), Kookaburra, Kimberleys, WA

While in Derby, we also saw some wonderful birdlife including brolgas. These are cranes, standing a metre tall with a wing span up to 2.4 metres that are unique to Australia. We also saw some red-tailed black cockatoos, and a rather indifferent Kookaburra. There’s more to see in the Kimberleys, including Broome, our next stop, which you can read about in the next blog.

This post is the seventh in a series about our travels through Australia’s south, centre and west. The first post was about Adelaide and can be found here.